Abu Nuwas Street
Historical Audio guide

Abu Nuwas Street

Karrada
About

Abu Nuwas Street is a street located in eastern Baghdad, on the Rusafa side, running parallel to the eastern bank of the Tigris River. It stretches between Al-Jumhuriya Bridge (formerly Queen Aliya Bridge) in the Bab Al-Sharqi area and the Suspension Bridge in Karrada Al-Sharqiya.

The street was named in honor of one of the most prominent poets of the Abbasid era, Al-Hasan ibn Hani’ ibn Al-Sabah, known by his pen name Abu Nuwas, who died in 198 AH (813 AD).

Before bearing this name, the street had other titles one of them being “Sheikh Jawad Al-Shibibi Street” in its early days. Historically, the area was originally a mud embankment that protected Baghdad’s orchards from the Tigris waters, before being transformed into a riverside street. It was first developed as a promenade road in the 1930s.

Since the early 20th century, Abu Nuwas Street has been one of Baghdad’s most iconic nightlife and leisure destinations. Along its length, cafés line the riverbank ranging from simple to elegant all united by serving the traditional Iraqi grilled fish dish, “masgouf,” along with other delicious classics like tikka, kebab, and pacha, followed by strong Iraqi tea (“sankin”). All of this is enjoyed to the timeless voices of Nazem Al-Ghazali, the “Ambassador of Iraqi Song,” and Umm Kulthum, the “Star of the East.”

The street was closed after the U.S. invasion of Iraq in 2003 and fell into neglect due to its location opposite government buildings and foreign embassies in Baghdad’s Green Zone. It was reopened in 2008, followed by a renovation and reconstruction campaign that included repaving, and the removal of concrete barriers and barbed wire.

Audio story

The Breath of Baghdad and the Mirror of Its River

3 Min · Arabic · English

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Audio experiences

5 stops to discover

  1. 1

    Shahrayar & Scheherazade Monument

    The Statue of Shahrazad and Shahryar is one of the most prominent artistic and cultural landmarks in Baghdad, symbolizing Iraq’s rich literary heritage and the timeless tales of “One Thousand and One Nights.” The statue was sculpted by the late Mohammad Ghani Hikmat, the master of Iraqi sculptors, renowned for his exceptional ability to capture historical figures and legends through his art. The monument was unveiled in 1975. Shahrazad stands tall with one hand raised as she speaks her face radiates intelligence and calm, as though she is weaving the tale that will save her life. Shahryar sits before her, listening intently, his expression marked by both wonder and remorse after a long history of cruelty. The design embodies feminine power through wisdom and words, showing how a woman transformed the world not by the sword, but by storytelling. The monument is made of bronze and surrounded by a small green space along the riverbank, appearing from afar like a perpetual theatrical scene. The story originates from “One Thousand and One Nights”: King Shahryar, betrayed by his wife, vowed to marry a new woman every night and execute her at dawn. Then came Shahrazad, the vizier’s daughter, who chose to change his fate and that of all women through storytelling. Each night, she narrated a tale and left it unfinished by morning, prompting the king to postpone her execution day after day… until he fell in love with her and his heart was transformed.

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  2. 2

    Carpet of Wind Monument

    The Statue of the Magic Carpet is one of the most prominent works by the late Iraqi sculptor Mohammad Ghani Hikmat, depicting one of the tales from “One Thousand and One Nights.” The sculpture portrays a couple seated on a flying carpet, captured in a pose that conveys motion and flight, with intricate details highlighting traditional clothing and facial expressions. The artwork represents the fusion between reality and imagination, symbolizing ambition, progress, and openness to the world. Completed in 1989, the statue stands as one of the pieces that reflect Mohammad Ghani Hikmat’s deep appreciation for Arab heritage and his ability to bring its legends to life through art.

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  3. 3

    Darbunah Restaurant

    It is a traditional Iraqi restaurant and café, considered one of the most notable destinations offering an authentic dining experience that reflects the true Baghdadi atmosphere. The restaurant features heritage-inspired décor representing the spirit of old Baghdad, with comfortable seating suitable for both families and young people. Its menu includes a variety of traditional Iraqi dishes such as kebab, dolma, okra stew, and marag (Iraqi-style broth), along with local desserts. The warm and friendly ambiance makes it an ideal place to experience authentic Iraqi cuisine. The building itself has a long history, dating back to 1917, when it was originally constructed as a residential house. It covers an area of approximately 385 square meters and includes 14 rooms of various sizes and functions. This structure is a fine example of traditional Baghdadi architecture, which has preserved its heritage character over time. In recent years, when it was transformed into “Darbouna” Restaurant and Café, its original architectural elements — such as shanasheel (wooden lattice balconies) and decorative windows — were carefully preserved, offering visitors a unique blend of authentic Iraqi flavors and historical ambiance. Originally, the building belonged to a Jewish Baghdadi family, reflecting the cultural and religious diversity that once characterized Baghdad during that era.

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  4. 4

    Qasr Aliya Restaurant

    Who was Queen Aliya? Queen Aliya bint Ali bin Hussein was the Queen of Iraq (1933–1939) and later the Queen Mother of Iraq (1939–1950). She was the daughter of King Ali bin Hussein, wife of King Ghazi of Iraq, and mother of King Faisal II. She was also the sister of Abd al-Ilah al-Hashemi, who served as the regent for Prince Faisal II before he ascended the throne. Queen Aliya is remembered as the last woman to hold the title of Queen of Iraq. The Royal Palace The Alia Palace was built in 1930 as a residence for Queen Aliya bint King Ali bin Al-Hussein, wife of King Ghazi and mother of King Faisal II. The palace is distinguished by its stunning view of the Tigris River, which adds to its unique charm and royal ambiance. From Royal Residence to Restaurant The palace has since been transformed into a restaurant known as “Alia Palace Restaurant.” It offers a unique dining experience that reflects the royal Iraqi heritage. The interior design preserves the luxurious 19th-century atmosphere, featuring historical furniture and décor, along with live piano music, which adds a touch of refined artistry and nostalgia for Baghdad’s regal past.

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  5. 5

    Masgouf on the Tigris

    Settle in riverside for Baghdad's defining meal: fresh carp split open and slow-grilled over open coals until smoky and tender, eaten with flatbread and pickles as the Tigris slips by. This is masgouf, the ritual that has drawn Baghdadis to Abu Nuwas Street for generations.

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