
The Trail of Karrada
On the eastern bank of the Tigris River, in the heart of Baghdad’s Rusafa side, lies Al Karrada Al Sharqiya one of the capital’s most prominent, historic, and vibrant neighborhoods.
It is called “Eastern Karrada” to distinguish it from Karradat Mariam, located on the Karkh side. Its administrative boundaries once stretched from the Republic Bridge in Bab Al Sharqi to Al Tayaran Square in the north. However, with massive population growth and administrative changes, those borders shrank, and the neighborhoods of New Baghdad and Zafaraniyah separated from it.
There are several stories about the origin of the name. One attributes it to the Ottoman Turkish word "Karadeh", meaning coast or cliff. Another suggests the name comes from a traditional irrigation tool known as the karood, once used by local residents to water their orchards thus giving rise to the name “Al Karrada.” Others believe it’s derived from the act of leading pack animals carrying vegetables to Baghdad karra Al dabba meaning “the animal's walk.” Another view links the name to kard Al nakheel the cutting and transporting of palm trees, which were abundant in the area. The poet Ma'ruf Al Rusafi, in his book “The Tool and the Machine,” proposed yet another origin: that the term comes from the Persian word “kard” meaning market, reflecting the neighborhood’s commercial activity.
From Al Karrada, specifically the Jadriya area, emerged one of the most famous nicknames ever used to refer to the British in Iraq: "Abu Naji." The name traces back to Najji Al Lami, a local farmer known to have ties with Gertrude Bell. Locals would go to him to have their needs met through British authorities, and over time, “Abu Naji” came to symbolize British soldiers a mocking, satirical term that stuck in popular memory.
Al Karrada has witnessed major social and demographic transformations. In the 1920s and 1930s, it was home to a large Jewish and Christian population families known for their wealth, education, and influence, who helped shape the area’s modern urban character. However, following the forced expulsion of Jews in the late monarchy and early republican periods, the neighborhood's demographic makeup gradually shifted, with Shi’a Muslims becoming the majority reflected in the rise of mosques and Husseiniyas established since the mid-20th century. Many distinguished Baghdadi families relocated to Al Karrada during the 1940s, seeking its cleaner, more spacious environment as they left behind the old alleys of the city.
Among the area’s most famous districts is Sab’ Qusur (Seven Palaces), named after seven large houses built by Jewish families. Another is Karradat Rkheita, named after a wealthy Jewish family known for its trade business. Some sources say Rkheita was a woman who owned the land, and her husband was Haj Ali Najm Pasha.
After 2003, Al Karrada became a refuge for displaced Iraqis and victims from across all sects. It welcomed people from the south, north, and central regions, becoming a symbol of coexistence and solidarity. It retained its commercial character, filled with upscale shops, restaurants, bookstores, markets, and universities, and remains today one of Baghdad’s most prestigious and lively districts.
Yet Al Karrada’s memory is also written in blood. At dawn on Sunday, July 3, 2016, one of the deadliest suicide bombings in modern Iraqi history struck a crowded commercial area near the end of Ramadan. The bombing killed more than 324 people and wounded nearly 250, most of them young people, women, and children. Fires engulfed buildings and shopping centers, and over 150 bodies were burned beyond recognition families had to resort to DNA tests at forensic centers to identify their loved ones.
Public reaction was one of rage and heartbreak. When Prime Minister Haider Al Abadi visited the site, grieving families pelted him with shoes and stones in protest against government negligence and lax security. A three-day national mourning period was declared.
In a later development, Prime Minister Mustafa Al Kadhimi announced on October 18, 2021 the arrest of Ghazwan Al Zawba’i, the individual responsible for the bombing. After a trial, the Al Rusafa Criminal Court sentenced him to death by hanging on May 31, 2022.
Despite the wounds, Al Karrada Al Sharqiya remains a vibrant, unyielding neighborhood a memory that cannot be erased. It continues to witness Baghdad’s changes and coexistence, embodying history, pain, beauty, and symbolism. It remains one of the capital’s gates that never sleeps.
The Neighborhood That Carried All of Baghdad
5 Min · Arabic · English
8 stops to discover
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Fahd Abdul Mohsen Al Sadoun Monument
Abdul Mohsen bin Fahd Pasha Al Saadoun was a prominent Iraqi politician, born in 1879 in the city of Nasiriyah. He held the position of Prime Minister four times during the monarchical era and is regarded as one of the most significant national figures in Iraq’s early political history. He also served as a member of the Constituent Assembly and was the second Prime Minister under the Iraqi monarchy. He belonged to the Al Saadoun family, a distinguished noble lineage that traces its roots back to the Sharifs of Medina (specifically, the Aaraji branch of Husseini descent). The family ruled the Emirate of Al Muntafiq, a historical tribal emirate that held extensive military and political power in southern Iraq during the Ottoman period and the era of the Mamluk dynasty in Iraq. This emirate encompassed most regions, tribes, and clans of southern and central Iraq, and his family were the chieftains of the Al Muntafiq tribal confederation, which was the largest alliance of diverse tribes (of various ethnic and tribal origins) in Iraq’s history. In recognition of his contributions to Iraq, a statue of Abdul Mohsen Al Saadoun was erected in Al Saadoun Street, located in the Bab Al Sharqi district of Baghdad, a street named in his honor. Unfortunately, after the U.S. invasion of Iraq in April 2003, the statue was looted, but it was later replaced with a new one, which now stands in the same location, continuing to commemorate his legacy.
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Firdos Square
It is one of the most famous squares in Baghdad and a prominent landmark in the city’s political and historical landscape. The square is located on the Rusafa side of the Tigris River, and it is overlooked by the Ishtar (Sheraton) Hotel and Palestine (Meridien) Hotel. Also facing the square is the historic 17 Ramadan Mosque, and the square once housed the Monument of the Unknown Soldier, which was built during the era of President Abdul Karim Qasim. In 1982, the monument was demolished and replaced by a statue of President Saddam Hussein, erected to mark his 65th birthday. The statue stood approximately 12 meters tall, but it was torn down during the invasion of Iraq on April 9, 2003.
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17th of Ramadan Mosque
considered one of Baghdad’s historic architectural landmarks. The foundation stone was laid during the reign of King Ghazi in 1355 AH / 1938 AD, funded by the Directorate of Endowments. It was initially planned to be named the King Faisal I Mosque. Construction began during the regency of Prince Abd al-Ilah on July 10, 1940, but then stopped until 1951, when the Endowments Council issued a decision to form a committee to resume work on the mosque, with plans to name it the King Faisal II Mosque. Work continued until 1953, then stopped again, and the name was considered to be changed to Al-Alawiyya Mosque. The mosque was not completed until the era of Abdul Karim Qasim, who initially intended to name it the Republic Mosque. However, when he inaugurated it on the National Day of the Revolution, July 14, 1959, he named it Martyr Mosque (Jami’ al-Shaheed). Nevertheless, it remained closed, and no prayers were held there for four years. The first prayer was held during the era of Abdul Salam Arif, on Friday, December 6, 1963, and the mosque was reopened and renamed 14 Ramadan Mosque, in honor of the 14th of Ramadan Revolution, 1383 AH / 1963 AD. After the fall of Saddam Hussein’s regime in 2003, the mosque was renamed 17 Ramadan Mosque, commemorating the Battle of Badr. The mosque’s total area is approximately 5,000 square meters, and it can accommodate more than 2,500 worshippers. The prayer hall contains a mihrab topped with a dome adorned with beautiful decorations. It also has a tall minaret with two balconies, built in a unique architectural style and covered in blue Karbala-style glazed tiles. The mosque includes: A residence for the imam and preacher A hall for religious events and mourning gatherings A women’s prayer area An administration and service room A garden surrounding the prayer hall
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Kahramana Monument
It is a monument in Baghdad for a girl named Kahramana, a character inspired by ancient Arab heritage, specifically from the tales of “One Thousand and One Nights”, linked to the legend of “Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves.” The story tells of a clever girl who used her wit to save her city from thieves. The monument was created by the famous Iraqi sculptor Mohammad Ghani Hikmat. The Story of Kahramana: The story revolves around Ali Baba, a poor man who accidentally discovered the thieves’ cave filled with treasures. After taking some gold, the thieves’ leader found out and searched for him until they located his house. The leader decided to hide his men inside large oil jars and send them to Ali Baba’s home disguised as oil containers, planning to attack and kill him at night. Kahramana, the daughter of Ali Baba’s servant, was intelligent and alert. While walking near the jars, she heard faint voices inside them and realized the thieves were hiding there. Thinking quickly, she poured boiling oil into the jars, killing the thieves and saving Ali Baba and his city from danger.
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Sayidat Al Najat Cathedral
Sayidat Al Najat Cathedral is a Syriac Catholic church located in the heart of Baghdad, on the Rusafa side of the city. It is considered one of the largest churches in the capital. The church was originally built in 1952 as a modest prayer hall, before the full cathedral was constructed and inaugurated on March 17, 1968, during the time of Bishop Yohanna Beikhos, a prominent figure in the history of the Chaldean Church in Iraq. The building was designed by the Polish architect Kafka, with assistance from the Romaya Engineering Office for the technical drawings. Construction was carried out by two Iraqi businessmen, Victor Tabouni and Adnan Sajid. Architecturally, the cathedral is designed to resemble a boat, with the cross forming the sail’s mast, shaped like an arch symbolizing the Gospel. The design represents the boat carrying the faithful, as in the story of Jesus and his disciples. In 2004, the church was targeted by a car bomb attack, injuring at least 50 people. The massacre of Sayidat Al Najat Cathedral occurred on Sunday, October 31, 2010, when gunmen from Al-Qaeda in Iraq (later known as ISIS) launched a brutal attack on the church during Sunday Mass, killing more than 50 people, including priests and worshippers, and injuring dozens. During the attack, around 120 people, mostly Christian families, were inside the church. Five armed militants entered the building with guns, grenades, and suicide vests, taking the congregation hostage and shooting indiscriminately. The attackers demanded the release of Al-Qaeda prisoners in Iraq and Egypt. After several hours of siege, Iraqi security forces, supported by U.S. troops, stormed the church to rescue the hostages. During the raid, the attackers detonated their explosives, resulting in many casualties among both hostages and security personnel. The church was restored and reopened years later. It became the first stop of Pope Francis’s historic visit to Iraq in March 2021, where he delivered a moving message of peace and religious tolerance, reaffirming the Vatican’s support for Christians in Iraq. Today, Sayidat Al Najat stands as a symbol of resilience and faith, where Masses are still held and it continues to serve the Christian community in Baghdad despite its tragic past.
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Aladdin Lamp Monument
The Aladdin Lamp Monument embodies the famous magical lamp inspired by the tales of One Thousand and One Nights. This artistic work was crafted by the late Iraqi sculptor Mohammed Ghani Hikmat, and is considered one of his latest creations that blend heritage with myth. The monument stands at about 10 meters tall, including its base, making it a prominent landmark that adds a fantastical touch to the Baghdadi landscape. It captures an aspect of the Eastern imagination for which the old tales of Baghdad are renowned. In recent years, the monument suffered from neglect and vandalism due to the difficult circumstances Iraq has endured. Nevertheless, the relevant authorities have undertaken repeated restoration campaigns to preserve this landmark—recognizing its artistic and cultural value, and its role in highlighting the aesthetic identity and symbolic heritage of the city.
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Baghdad Monument
The Baghdad Monument stands tall in the heart of the Iraqi capital, as one of the most prominent artistic works created by the great sculptor Mohammad Ghani Hikmat. The monument was unveiled in 2013, making it one of the last creations of this artist before his passing. It was completed under the supervision of his son after his death, in commemoration of the father and as a continuation of his rich artistic journey. The monument consists of a tall column, atop which stands a woman wearing Abbasid attire, symbolizing Baghdad’s ancient civilization. On the base of the column, praise poems expressing love for Baghdad were engraved, written by a number of major Arab poets, so that the monument would stand as a witness to the fusion of art and poetry in glorifying the city. The monument includes nine poetic verses by seven poets who sang the praises of Baghdad. In 2010, the Mayor of Baghdad commissioned Mohammad Ghani Hikmat to produce four artistic works as part of a cultural program to beautify the capital. This monument was one of them, and indeed the most symbolic and meaningful. These works were characterized by a beautiful blend of ancient Iraqi tradition and modern art, making them prominent landmarks in the aesthetic scene of Baghdad. The Abbasid woman in the monument embodies the figure of a reclining woman, with her back to the sun, gazing toward the distant horizon a reference to the idea that the roots of Iraqi civilization came from the East, and that Baghdad has always been a beacon of light and thought. Years after the monument was built, some officials at Baghdad Municipality thought that its great height made it difficult for passersby to see, since it could only be viewed by raising one’s head upward. However, that was precisely the essence of the sculptor's idea; he wanted to embody the greatness of Baghdad and its lofty status, a city that can only be seen when a person raises their head to it with reverence and pride. Although it was temporarily moved to the Al-Alawi area (at the former site of the March Monument), objections by artists and academics led to its return to its original location, out of respect for the artistic vision that Hikmat wanted to remain complete. Thus, the Baghdad Monument remains an eternal work that symbolizes femininity, heritage, and pride, and represents an artistic tribute from Mohammad Ghani Hikmat to his mother city Baghdad.
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The 2016 Karrada Bombing Memorial
On a busy Ramadan night in July 2016, a truck bomb tore through this crowded shopping district, killing more than 300 people in one of the deadliest single attacks in Baghdad's history. The site is now a place of remembrance woven into the daily bustle of the city's commercial heart.
Near Baghdad
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